Monday, 30 January 2006

Homebrew Chain Tensioner - beta ver. 0.7

Well I didn't get to ride the bike at the weekend (got my fitness fix from 5 laps of Drayton's running track instead) so I decided I would have a crack at my idea for a replacement tensioner.

My existing tensioner, a Primo Venus, weighs about the same as my back wheel so it's gotta go, replaced with a little push screw affair that I fab'd at my pops place:



This 'test' version is made from ally, so I'm not holding out that it's going to last. I wanted to see if the idea would work for now...



I used the cut-out in the back of the dropout to screw the tensioner to the frame then drilled & tapped another hole for the screw to push the peg back in the frame.

I think that because of the amount the tensioner sticks out, the leverage on it will fuck it up sooner rather than later but it was fun to have a go at it. I am going to make a steel (or Ti if I can find some) 'L' shaped one next using the same design principals & I was also thinking about modding my peg so that the tensioner is built into that...
your thoughts...

7 comments:

  1. good prototype.... i've got a good sized slab of grade 6 titaniumie if you need some, your problems gona be machining it, coz really you need an high grade tungstun carbide to drill,tap & machine, I have some ti drills that may be up for the job(if loads of cutting fluid is used and the cutting is done real slow)needs to be on a good piiler drill aswell..... i've always thought about a small grub screw drilled n taped into the back of the dropout slot,but it creates some asre about face assembly probs.. at the mo I just torque my wheel nuts up to around 100lbs or so (ti axle & nuts) don't get any probs with that other than the need to carry a torque rench around in my car!!

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  2. thinking about it more if you use small nuts and bolts you could reduce the size and there for the leverage,i've got a large selection of nuts n bolts so we could do with getting to gether and thrashing some ideas out...... has anyone got the use of a machine shop? coz like many i've got like 20 ideas for parts!!

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  3. www.flybikesbmx.com/noticias/images/3amigosframe10.jpg

    This would be perfect!

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  4. yea, that'd do the job, or without wanting to state the obvious too much, if you run the bolt that's pushing against your peg as close to the fram as poss, it'll have a bunch less stress on it.
    That+maybe taking the mount thing bit through to the inside of the frame and running a reasonably big washer jobbie on that side. Would help keep things straight. Maybe

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  5. the reason I couldn't run it up closer was because I had to drill & thread into the ally piece deep enough (12mm) to bolt it through the dropout 1st & then drill the other whole for the screw to push the peg dude...

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  6. Ahh right, I was thinking of it the other way round, like the block of aluminium had like a threaded peg on the end and that went into/through the hole........
    Ok, you win, can't think of a way around it without getting a little "L" shaped bit like that pic on the fly site. You could make a bit like that, if you started with a square(ish) bit of metal, drilled the holes, then took a grinder or something(if there's a better bit of equipment available?) to it and took that corner bit off, then tapped it..... still gonna be a pain in arse getting low profile nut/bolt thing to hold it on though. Then again, the head on a normal bolt that small can't stick out more than 2-3mm surely? Which is better than 12mm? Assuming there's a bit of space on the inside of the dropout(between that and the hub/freewheel/thingo)
    Just kind of spewing ideas, not so sure they're any good

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  7. It's all good Milks, I have given this far too much thought & you can expect a vastly improved version on my ride asap... :-)

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